The Style Curator

French Women Don’t Get Fat

That’s not the point of this post, but note that none of the following models on the Paris runways are fat.  

I am obsessed with the Kenzo collection, and that is why this baby is going first.  Great prints in two-pieced outfits that suggest a 1950s influence, exciting POCs, sheer tops that are really quite shockingly classy, and sophisticated mono-color suits really make this collection, with hints of art nouveau, a success. Oh and the use of eyeballs is really key.

A geometric and colorful collection, Akris’s Albert Kriemler’s contemporary art theme a la American expressionist painter Franz Kline for inspiration hits you like a canvas falling off an easel (WWD). It’s happened.  This line shows the FW ’12 trending (or so I proclaim) mono-color and mono-print in lush textures and structured silhouettes with touches of feminine sheers and sexy cuts.  How artistic.

Ann Demeulemeester’s seductive collection of blacks and rich deep blues was frightening in a really good way.  And check out that hair! The collection’s really piece-y cuts and drapes made the sleek slick line the perfect amount gorgeously sophisticated.

Balenciaga’s Nicolas Ghesquière pushes the limits of the “working woman” and her “work attire” off the edge.  And I love it.  The geometric shapes and accenting colors prove Paris to be a city of contemporary artistic clothes but what really sets this line apart is the innovation of cut.  Check out those puffy tops (told ya, kids)!  What looks more perfect for fall then an awkwardly puffy sweatshirt-like top, perhaps with a logo (?), and an A-line skirt all-reminiscent of space age? Nicolas’ collection proves that said outfit really works it.

Another artist in touch with silhouettes is Balmain’s Olivier Rousteing who really took embroidery to the next level, piling on pearls and studs and other embroideries as an homage to Liz Taylor (WWD).  While the line was dominated by said embellishments, I did spot a midi-slit or two, and my heartstrings were yanked by the amazing mono-color suits (this includes the classic all-cream suit).  The textures in the fabrics make it hard to look away, a hypnotic trick only saved by the following perhaps even better look.

The famously retro Cacharel kept it real with pastels and classically Cacharel cuts.  My favorite pieces included the A-symmetric baggy shorts, the popular pop of burgundy, the mono-color onesie suits, and the twenties pilot hat—hommage to Amelia Earhart. You go girl.

Chloe’s FW ’12 collection demonstrates how a quilt can indeed be fashionable.  The warm colors mixed with plush, cozy looking fabrics a la mediocre-ly shapeless pants made me rethink the slim-line geometric style that other designers have embraced.

While I have been naming different trends that have had serious prime time on the runways this show season, none of these said trends are included in the avant garde (Yayoi Kusama in the dots look, anyone?) Comme des Garcons collection (other than the obvious mono-color, mono-pattern and geometry…taken quite literally).  Few other designers can say that they made vibrantly patterned (ode to florals!) and textured tents a fashion statement. But doesn’t that make it all the more genius?

I wish that the “fairytale” assignment in my painting class could look like Christian Dior’s FW ’12 collection.  There was a lot of belting of dresses, jackets, tops, and skirts, and a perfect combination of femininity and structure. Dior’s Bill Gaytten made what a modern take on the classical Monet Water Lilies paintings.

Dries Van Noten did some serious geometric work and worked out some respectable puffy sleeve in this collection.  Having gotten inspiration from the Asian sections of the Victoria & Albert Museum in London, it is clear that Noten did his design research pre-creation.  The collection has a nice flow and some lovely graphic Asian persuasion via silk. 

Giambattista Valli’s collection doesn’t get a “gasp”, however, I would wear and embrace every artfully designed piece.  The mono-print two-piece outfits are cut in a geometric and feminine way, and the use of texture is innovative, especially in the use of feathers.  All of these outfits scream “Fall” and are done so in a warm palate and in a quite desirable way.

This aggressive collection is perfection in my book.  The Givenchy models walked down the runway in dark fierce colors and cuts, with just the perfect mixes of reds, navies, and rich browns in with the traditional Givenchy black.  Here is another genius version of the fur sleeve and the amazing chic quilted pant (this time leather). Unbelievable.

Alexander McQueen’s Sarah Burton did some crazy storytelling fantastical romance with this collection.  The typically virgin white was oh-so-not virgin and black was made to look romantic by way of shape and feathers.  Insane usages of fur and puff dominated this collection.  The silhouettes took “artistry” to the next level.  But what else would you expect from a McQueen line?  Sheers and surprising additions of colorful looks made the show an exciting hit.  I just can’t help but wonder how the models were able to walk in the dresses.

I wonder how he does it, but he always does.  Chanel’s Karl Lagerfeld painstakingly popped out his own line recently, and yet he successfully told a story using skirt-and-pants looks, the classic white suit, great structure, and sticking with the classic Chanel textures—there are a lot of warm sweaters, and even touches of fringe.  One of my personal favorite looks included a grandma-esque sweater with a ridiculously Sol Lewitt jacket.  I choked on my own saliva seeing that one.  What is great about Chanel is the ability to still be different and take risks.  Some of these looks even hinted toward the fairytale theme via flowing skirts to dresses, but then the collection also showed some seriously structured vests.  Somehow, Lagerfeld was still able to make the show concise.  Oh and the addition of a little kid on the runway never did any harm…Whatta magician.

Here are some extra favorite goodies. Alexis Mabille’s line didn’t quite have the punch-in-the-face factor, but this take on the puffy sleeve a la feathers is really really working it out. Speaking of puffy sleeve, look at Fendi’s use of fur to create some real volume..I applaud you.  A look that keeps popping up is the cinched-at-the-ankle baggy pant look, one that Hermes worked in a lush suede.  And just look at those ovule-of-a-flower shoes!  Nina Ricci did some good by sticking to the trends: slits, sheers, and puffy sleeves are timeless I tell ya.  Rick Owens is daring and quite a contemporary artist in his own right, but sign me up for that jacket.  Stella McCartney used texture and shape to make her collection in line with the Parisian warmth for fall. Even with a bit of mayhem going on in the YSL house, the collection was classic and it produced a mean mono-print suit. 

bonne saison de la mode, kids!

Deja vous a la RTW

There has been an obvious trend of huge luxurious furs on the Runway, all of which PETA has probably had several continuous seizures over but what else has been rocking the runways?  What else have the models been making me really jealous look sassy frassy?

Note: trends do and can cross over. Just don’t make that your goal. Or else you are to look like an idiot fo sho.

Maurizio Pecararo, Roksanda Ilincic, No. 21

As colorful as a freshly formed bruise, these burgundy pieces are rich in tone and vibrancy.  I find burgundy a perfect color for fall… and I guess Maurizio Pecararo Roksanda Ilincic, and No. 21 do too (respectively)

John Richmond, Alexander Wang, Alberta Ferretti 

As white as the snow that has not and shall not (god willingly) fall, these white suits are crisp and fitted in all the right places.  While all three show structured shoulders and the obvious whiteness factor, nothing else is the same.  Nothing I tell you!  None of these are designed by the same designer, none of the pant legs fall the same length, none of them are even cinched avec a button the same!  It’s really quite innovative taking white and a suit and making such masterpieces.  Bravo. 

No. 21, Maurizio Pecoraro, Acne

One of my favorite looks imaginable, and not only because my mother’s suits from the 80’s have this trend written all over them, the mono-colored two piece is daring and distinct.  You really cannot go wrong by sticking to one color.  I personally prefer breaking away from single color concerning the shoes and bag, but apparently Maurizio Pecoraro didn’t feel quite the same way so hey, do that too if you so wish to but I rather you don’t.  

Lela Rose, Prada, Gucci

Like the good old fashioned Chiquita Banana commercial’s dancers, these three lovely ladies who I am not sure are actually lovely or not are sporting mono-print two-pieces. Therefore, they took the mono-color look one step yonder and popped out some serious looks.  That girl over there on the right may or may not be working the pajama-chic look. And that look there in the middle? Yeah, I’m gonna obtain that shoes and all. Wait but let’s discuss Prada for a sec, because Miuccia Prada seriously killed it. Gasp.

Abigail Stewart, Alberta Ferretti, No. 21

Uber risque but equally beautiful, these three looks are amongst many sheer designs that walked down the runway.  Yep, there were a lot of nipples this season.  Because nipples are a trend in their own.  And we all have them.  Anyway, the petite dresses looked darling with capped sheer sleeves and even sheer trim down at the bottom.  A daring yet classy trend.  The only problem is fall=cold=…..

Alexander Wang, No. 21., No. 21

Another trend that makes me appreciate my mother’s closet of wonders, high mid slit skirts are taking over.  So watch out plain pencil skirts.  What is exciting about these skirts is that a slit works with a narrow skirt, with a flared skirt, and even with a tutu though that may be a little S&M.  The slit skirt works with the bulky top (see first look), with a clean button-down mono-color OR mono-print top. Business women and the like get your butts ready for fall.

Alexander Wang, Burberry Prorsum, John Richmond 

And now it is time to thank my Grandmother because her closet takes this one.  The movement of these fringe adorned pieces down the runway is incomparable.  Think shag rug made out of silk. Yeah. It’s that good.

Alexander Wang, Fabiola, Gucci 

Here’s a trend that I don’t think could ever die.  What skirt doesn’t want a feather or two or five hundred? And what hat doesn’t want to look like a peacock (think Sex and the City the Movie)?  Like fringe, the movement of feathers really makes a statement.  A cocktail dress, a jumper, or a skirt.  I’ll take all three.

Burberry Prorsum, Gucci, Roksanda Ilincic

I’m not sure but I may have to declare this one my almost favorite and it’s not because of its affiliation to Seinfeld yes it is.  The puffy sleeve has a very romantic look to it.  I’m missing the jumper with puffy sleeve look because that one would be a serious score.  The puffy sleeve makes you look like a heavy-on-the-top light-on-the-bottom kind of girl, and we’re not talking chest.  The silhouette just simply works.  And you may be able to catch enough wind to fly.

Moschino Cheap & Chic, Peter Pilotto, Burberry Prorsum

Probably the most glorious of all is the eyeball trend.  Blink your eyes and think about that one for a second.  While you may not see the truth in this declaration other than Moschino Cheap & Chic’s literal eyeball print (which is pure genius), that owl sure has some big eyes, and Pilotto’s pattern looks pretty face-like to me (note the two eyes on her lower abdomen).  I think I’ve just proved my point.  May the world be walking with eyeball-chic clothes come fall.

That’s a wrap.

all photos credited to WWD.com

Magic across the pond

And now it is time for me to catch my breath and virtually race on over to London just before Italy says ‘ciao’.  I can’t help but ache for amazing coats and preppy-yet-still-artsy and quirky designs all of which I could image myself walking along a rainy Londonion road wearing.  Get your umbrellas.  Or at least get your glasses and read on to see my London picks.

Here we see some pieces I wouldn’t mind taking home with me. Roksanda Ilincic’s geometric and deliciously shoulder-capped furry collection is marked with beautiful details on dresses, jumpsuits, baggy pants and the like.  The deep hues with those yellow shoes. Borderline die. Ilincic really knows how to get this girl excited.  I especially appreciate a really puffy sleeve think Seinfeld Puffy Shirt episode circa 1993. May that series live on forever.

Acne is sometimes a good thing when it is all over your body.  Jonny Johansson’s inspiration was Hans Bellmer (art in fashion, I tell ya!) and has stated that the theme of his collection is “body art”.  I drool over the thick very mid century modern belts, sleek burgundy suits, puffy colorful sweaters, baggy patterned pants but most of all the outerwear.  Get me inside one of those coats! While Bellmer doesn’t exactly come across in my eyes, other than the fact that he is 1) dealing with the female specimen and 2) doing some serious puffy sh*t, I do love a great art inspiration in any collection and wherever Johansson sees it, I nod my head.  Because this man just handed me a great future style curation, should I be given any of said pieces (look 10, anyone?). 

Erdem’s collection really embodies that London-look for me.  Can’t you see yourself strolling down Regent Street in any single one of these getups?  And it helps that Erdem Moralioglu had my girl Peggy Guggenheim in mind while creating this collection. The little-boy-with-erect-penis sculpture by Marino Marini at the Peggy Guggenheim, Venice is a classic. While Erdem usually leans toward a feminine-flare in his collections, we see some bad ass moves on his runway.  Acidic yellows, kaleidoscopic patterns and an insane amount of texture and use of line and silouette really puts Erdem on the map of most daring and most successful shows this season. Does that middle yellow dress remind anyone of a certain Honor dress from New York? Clearly there’s a trend here.  Yellow knee-length streamline dresses for Fall anyone?

Mary Katrantzou can do no wrong in my eyes.  Katrantzou’s collection is one of the few that tells a story for me—corrupted child turns princess fairy returning to bad ass.  The detail in the patterns, and the volume in the pieces really is what stands out here. First let’s discuss line.  From full astronaut-suited shoulders and ever-so-popular peplum evening-wear to the baby-doll-like mid-thigh-length dresses, I see a very whimsical girly fairy-tale like look going on and I like it.  And dare we forget those head-to-toe single print outfits (cue looks 10 and 21).  That for sure would get a good number of passerby dizzy.

all photos courtesy of WWD.com

New York in the flashiest of flashes

Last week was dominated by a frenzy of midtermish things and gross amounts of ADD on my part, and to be honest my little fingers couldn’t type as fast as the looks came up here and there.  However that is not to say that I didn’t take note of which collections, and even more narrowly, pieces I appreciated.  While I hate to say this, I only choked and gasped for air a few times, however I did not die for any collection.  I am still living.  The following are the pieces that did make me reach for my inhaler.

Proenza Schouler, Band of Outsiders, DVF

These pieces struck my color heart strings.  Color, modern clean lines, and fall-season warmth all over.  Awesome geometric lines and whimsical patterns are a real eye-catcher too.

Alexandre Herchcovitch, Alexander Wang, Cynthia Rowley

Three looks that do amazing yet different magic with textures: Herchcovitch makes a very clean cut look seem quite feminine and dressed up, Wang adds sex appeal with a slit in his skirt but keeps it real with a baggy upper-half, and Rowley’s dress is feminine-the way the fabric is highlighted is quite sexy.

Naeem Khan, Calvin Klein, Fabiola

Three neutral-colored looks that I think will dominate stylistas this coming fall.  Khan uses a flapper skirt with an Egyptian-esque neckline… and that beading. GASP. Inhaler needed. Klein’s collection was O.T.W. (out of this world, get with) and I can smell some belted leather in my future.  Fabiola’s feather-skirted dress looks like a dramatic ornament that I would slip my body into before you could say “squak”.

Honor, Lela Rose, Lela Rose

I am really feeling the girly whirly fun in these three looks.  Business woman-gone-SEX in Honor’s look.  That yellow peaking out of black lace in such a conservative silhouette is so right.  Lela Rose’s two looks go from sexy-work woman to evening angel.  Me likey.

all photos courtesy of WWD.com

The Layering Guru

Last week we lost one of the ultimate contemporary artists of our time, Mike Kelley.  His art, among many other adjectives, was and is innovative and fresh.  Represented by Gagosian Gallery, Kelley’s artwork is a big deal among the big dealers and among students who seek for that deep dark side in art like my deep dark self.  What the young contemporary artists-in-training seek to do, Kelley has already done: his kitschy philosophically-loaded works make us reminiscent of our pasts, aroused by the present, and ravaged by the possibility and unsureness of the future.  If you doubt his geniusness which isn’t a word but at the same time is the perfect word, why didn’t you think of shitting on stuffed animals? Think about that.

Eviscerated Corpse (1989)- courtesy of Art Institute of Chicago

Marilyn Minter referred to his genius creations as “mining a thirteen year old’s bedroom” but really it’s like mining my bedroom today.

dress vintage t-shirt DANNIJO shirt Equiptment tights Uniqlo shoes ACNE jewelry DANNIJO, vintage, Victoria & Albert Design Shop

The patterns, the baby ballerina bun, not really the shoes, and the pink o’ plenty is all an ode to Mike Kelley. So are the knots on my shirts which are equivalent to three nipples.

And every time you but mostly I throw clothes on in a clashy yet systematic way—try “layering”—you are taking a page out of Mike Kelley’s book of art.  R.I.P.